Last fall, my husband and I got to visit my sister in
Oxford, England, during her study-abroad term there during her senior year of
university. It all brought back many memories of my own semester studying in
the “City of Dreaming Spires” during college, nearly ten years ago, and the
incredibly rich history this centuries-old city of England holds. If you ever
get the chance to visit, here are a few “sneak peeks” of the history you’ll
find in this place considered to hold the top university in the world.
Medieval History
The University Church of St. Mary the Virgin |
For us Americans, the sheer “oldness” of England can be
astonishing. I enjoyed telling family and friends back home how I was studying
at New College in Oxford…which was ”new” in 1379. It really is a different
perspective; one lecturer I had the privilege of hearing informed us that there
is “nothing new since 1500.” The 39 colleges scattered through the city that
make up Oxford University were built at various times through the centuries,
but many date back to the Middle Ages, as do several other buildings through
the city. It’s quite an experience to walk down the street, past bicycles, post
boxes (some dating to Queen Vicoria), and litter bins, and be able to run your
hand along a medieval stone wall, thinking of all the people who have
walked this same path over the ages.
Highlights to see: The University Church of St. Mary the
Virgin
The original university church, and still a functioning
congregation today, this beautiful Gothic structure dates to the 1200s. If you can handle
mounting numerous winding stone steps in a tight space while clinging to a
rope, spend the few pounds to climb the church tower—the view from the spire up top is
incomparable. And you may even find a nesting pigeon in a cranny on the way up.
Reformation/Church History
Oxford was the site of some significant events in European
church history, particularly during the Reformation. In the same University
Church mentioned above, a large notch cut in one of the stone pillars supporting
the church inside the sanctuary marks the platform where Thomas Cranmer stood
and withdrew his former recantation of his Protestant beliefs. He, along with Hugh
Latimer and Nicholas Ridley, were all burned at the stake in Oxford in the
1550s under Queen Mary. A cross still marks the spot on Broad Street near Balliol
College.
The Martyrs Memorial |
Moving a bit later in church history, John and Charles
Wesley both attended the University at Christ Church college, another of Oxford’s
most famous colleges. John Wesley preached a number of times at the University
Church, until his critiques of spiritual apathy made him no longer welcome.
Smaller Methodist preaching houses and chapels soon sprang up to fill the gap.
Highlights to see: The University Church;
the Martyrs Memorial; the cross in Broad Street
The Inklings and other Literary History
Oxford has nurtured many of England’s finest writers,
including Oscar Wilde, Percy Bysshe Shelley, and Gerard Manley Hopkins.
Lewis Carroll’s famous Alice in Wonderland was inspired by stories he told to a
friend’s daughter (named Alice) on rowboat trips up and down the river Thames
(more a stream here than when it reaches London).The Kilns, C.S. Lewis's home |
Most fascinating to many, Oxford is the cradle of the Inklings,
the group of writers including J.R.R. Tolkien and C.S. Lewis that birthed such
treasures as The Chronicles of Narnia and The Lord of the Rings. Lewis and
Tolkien and their writing buddies met regularly at the local Oxford pub The
Eagle and Child, where visitors can step right into the Rabbit Room where these
beloved stories were critiqued, shaped, and discussed.
Highlights to see:
The Kilns
Not far away, in the Oxford suburb of Headington, privileged
visitors can actually step into C.S. Lewis’s home, The Kilns. As it is still
the home of visiting scholars, The Kilns can only be seen by special arrangement,
but it’s a treat if you get the chance.
Magdalen College
The Eagle and Child pub where the Inklings met |
Pronounced “maudlin,” this is the college where C.S. Lewis
taught and also boasts a deer park.
The Eagle and Child
Don’t miss a chance to dine at this cozy pub, built in 1650
and fondly known by the Inklings as “The Bird and Baby." You can find plenty of non-alcoholic options and hearty,
affordable English food, not to mention relish the historic atmosphere and see if you can find a hobbit or a faun sprung from the pages of a beloved book.
There's still far more history to see in Oxford, but at least that gives you a peek! How about you? Have you ever visited this "City of Dreaming Spires," or heard much about it? If not, which of these places sounds most appealing to you? Are you an Inklings fan? Please comment and share!
Kiersti Giron holds a life-long passion for history and historical fiction. She loves to write stories that show the intersection of past and present, explore relationships that bridge cultural divides, and probe the healing Jesus can bring out of brokenness. Kiersti has been published in several magazines and won the 2013 ACFW Genesis Award - Historical for her manuscript Beneath a Turquoise Sky. A high school teacher and member of American Christian Fiction Writers, Kiersti loves learning and growing with other writers penning God's story into theirs, as well as blogging at www.kierstigiron.com. She lives in California with her wonderful husband, Anthony.
Kiersti Giron holds a life-long passion for history and historical fiction. She loves to write stories that show the intersection of past and present, explore relationships that bridge cultural divides, and probe the healing Jesus can bring out of brokenness. Kiersti has been published in several magazines and won the 2013 ACFW Genesis Award - Historical for her manuscript Beneath a Turquoise Sky. A high school teacher and member of American Christian Fiction Writers, Kiersti loves learning and growing with other writers penning God's story into theirs, as well as blogging at www.kierstigiron.com. She lives in California with her wonderful husband, Anthony.
Interesting! Thanks for the post. We forget here in the U.S. what a "young" country we are.
ReplyDeleteIt's very true...though the history of this land goes back far when it comes to the Native peoples, the United States as an entity is still a comparative baby to much of the world. Thanks for sharing, Connie!
DeleteI would love to visit Oxford! It's on my bucket list. Lovely post!
ReplyDeleteThanks so much, Susie! I hope you make it to Oxford someday soon...I know you'd love it. :)
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