The word “millinery” sounded mysterious to me when I was a child as though it were part of the lingerie department! Millinery simply came from the root word of the city of Milan, meaning fine things that came from Milan, such as the ribbons and straw needed to make a stylish hat. It is thought that this word was used starting in 16th century England. The modern definition is someone who makes and sells women's hats.
Women’s hats throughout the 1800s showed so much variation, but whether gaudy or not, they were often decorated and trimmed with plentiful flowers and feathers. So much so that the British had to enact laws to protect certain birds. Though 1880s Paris set trends in headwear even as it continues to in the fashion industry today, there is one trend that thankfully didn’t catch on across the Pond. The stuffed heads of kittens and baby squirrels were perched amidst other trim to appear as though they were peeking out. Hard to imagine such a gruesome thing today!
In 1900 around 83,000 people, mostly women were employed in the millinery industry. Women’s hats were big business. A fashion-conscious woman wouldn’t leave her house without her hat and gloves. Hairstyles became more voluminous. Hair was combed back into place and puffed forward over the forehead. Fairly wide hats were worn tilted forward also. Both echoed the popular Gibson Girl “S-curve” shape of the body. As the volume of the hairdos increased, pompadour frames were placed underneath to support the hats, confections trimmed in tulle, artificial flowers, and plumes.
In 1902, hats often included the elegance of lace veils. Mid-decade, hats narrowed but grew in height. But as the decade progressed, women tended to part their hair in the middle and a poofy fullness was given to the sides. This accommodated a much wider-brimmed hat that wasn’t quite as tall. This style was worn around 1908-11. Think the first couple seasons of Downton Abbey! These hats were meant to balance out the straight up and down lines of newer women’s fashions. These wide-brimmed hats were referred to as Picture or Gainsborough hats. They were fastened onto a lady’s hair with long hatpins.
Piled atop of these were large dried flowers, some sewn on with lace and even real twigs and leaves. They were referred to as “Garden” hats. Real stuffed birds were still an issue. Ostriches were raised to provide the largest plumes.
Influenced by the entertainment world, the Merry Widow hat, named after a show of the same name, became all the rage around 1907. A an early Three Musketeers film had women clamoring for tricorn and bi-corn hats. Hat brims were turned up on the side at an angle.
Brightly colored turbans, adorned with brooches, took the center stage for evening headwear. As the second decade of the 20th century progressed, the crowns of hats were still higher but the brims shrank. Renaissance inspired velvet Tudor berets, smaller versions of picture hats, and straw boaters were all considered fashionable.
While higher class women went to the milliner to choose a hat, a middle-class woman might make her own. A ladies’ Home Journal article provided instructions for constructing a hat by twisting and sewing into place velvet ribbon artfully, but casually around a hat frame, which could be made from milliner’s wire. Flowers such as pansies, heliotropes, lilacs, roses, and even butterflies were suggested embellishments. Some Victorian magazines gave instructions for weaving your own straw hat for spring!
As ready-to-wear fashion items became more accessible, middle class women could enjoy fashionable hats at a price they could afford, as well. As the bell-shaped cloche hat appeared in the 1920s, for the most part the era of elegant daywear hats had passed.
As ready-to-wear fashion items became more accessible, middle class women could enjoy fashionable hats at a price they could afford, as well. As the bell-shaped cloche hat appeared in the 1920s, for the most part the era of elegant daywear hats had passed.
Whether made from wool felt, silk, velvet or straw and embellished with lace, feathers, or flowers, women’s hats were feminine expressions of personalities and elegance well into the last century.
Note: The first five images were found at Karen's Whimsy and are in the public domain.
Kathleen Rouser is the multi-published author of the 2017 Bookvana Award winner, Rumors and Promises, her first novel about the people of fictional Stone Creek, Michigan, and its sequel, Secrets and Wishes. She is a longtime member in good standing of American Christian Fiction Writers. Kathleen wanted to be a writer before she could even read. She longs to create characters who resonate with readers and realize the need for a transforming Savior in their everyday lives. She lives in Michigan with her hero and husband of thirty-some years, and the sassy tail-less cat who found a home in their empty nest. Connect with Kathleen on her website at kathleenrouser.com, on Facebook at https://www.facebook.com/kathleenerouser/, and on Twitter @KathleenRouser.
Kathleen Rouser is the multi-published author of the 2017 Bookvana Award winner, Rumors and Promises, her first novel about the people of fictional Stone Creek, Michigan, and its sequel, Secrets and Wishes. She is a longtime member in good standing of American Christian Fiction Writers. Kathleen wanted to be a writer before she could even read. She longs to create characters who resonate with readers and realize the need for a transforming Savior in their everyday lives. She lives in Michigan with her hero and husband of thirty-some years, and the sassy tail-less cat who found a home in their empty nest. Connect with Kathleen on her website at kathleenrouser.com, on Facebook at https://www.facebook.com/kathleenerouser/, and on Twitter @KathleenRouser.
