Wednesday, August 28, 2024

The History of Neckties by Donna Schlachter

Please note: all images from https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Necktie 
 


“A rose by any other name is still a rose.” As such, a necktie by any other name is still a necktie. Or is it?

With today being National Bow Tie Day, I thought I’d look into this article of clothing and learn its secrets. I was surprised when I researched this topic that there are many different kinds of neckties. For most of us, the mere word conjures up an image of a long piece of fabric, wider at one end than the other, plain or patterned, and, if you look carefully at the back, consisting of three pieces of fabric cut on the bias. This is a modern-day version of the necktie, but its history is fascinating.

Croatian mercenaries serving in France during the Thirty Years’ War (1618-1648), wore small knotted neckerchiefs. Parisians, always on the lookout for the latest fashion trend, even four hundred years ago, took notice, and began duplicating the design. Apparently, in an attempt to name the article of clothing while giving credit to its origin, cravate came into popular use, a combination of the Croatian word for Croates, Hrvati, and the French word for folks from Croatia, Croates.

Louis XIV began wearing a lace cravat around 1646 at the age of seven, setting the tone for French nobility. His example started a fashion craze in Europe, and men and women alike wore them. Men wore lace versions, which took a lot of time and effort to arrange, and were often held in place with strings, neatly tied in a bow.
In 1715, stocks came into fashion. Originally a name ascribed to a leather collar, laced at the back, and worn by soldiers to remind them to keep their head held high, it also protected the major blood vessels of the neck from attack. General Sherman wore one in American Civil War photographs.

In the late 1700s, cravats made an appearance on the fashion scene again, most likely brought to America by macaronis, young Englishmen returning from Europe who brought with them new ideas about fashion. So, you see, the term in the song “Yankee Doodle” was in common use at the time.

By the 1800s, there was a lot of discussion about the proper way to tie a cravat, leading to publications devoted to the topic. The first, Neckclothitania, contained instructions on tying fourteen different knots. Very soon, a man’s elegance and wealth was judged by the skill and time required to tie his cravat.
Mathew Brady with long tie c 1875
 
With the Industrial Revolution, more people wanted neckwear that was easy to put on, was comfortable, and would retain their shape and form for an entire workday. It was during this time that the long, thin, and easy to knot version that is familiar to us today was designed. Theodore Roosevelt was the first US president to wear this style, in 1903.

The modern version, cut on the bias, was designed in 1922 by Jesse Langsdorf. He discovered that this technique improved elasticity, allowing the tie to return to its normal shape after wearing and cleaning.

Over the following years, hand-painted ties became a thing in the US, and so the width of the tie increased to accommodate the sometimes-complex artwork.

There are several types of neckties: cravat; four-in-hand; six- and seven-fold ties; skinny tie; pre-tied ties and clip-ons. And there are many knot types. The four main ones are: four-in-hand; Pratt (or Shelby); half-Windsor; and Windsor (sometimes called the full Windsor and the Double Windsor).
More recently, researchers have figured out that there are eighty-five knots possible with a conventional tie. They limited the number of “moves” to nine to produce the best results.
Ties are not worn merely as neckwear or something to cover a gaping button line in a shirt. Many wear them as a sign of membership or alumni of colleges, prep schools, sports teams, or as a tartan to denote clan membership in Ireland and Scotland. In some cases, an emblem is embroidered on the plain fabric, while in others, the colors and pattern describe the connection.





Leave a comment to answer the question: Tie? Yes or no?



About Donna:

 
A hybrid author, Donna writes squeaky clean historical and contemporary suspense. She has been published more than 60 times in books; is a member of several writers groups; facilitates a critique group; teaches writing classes; and judges in writing contests. She loves history and research, traveling extensively for both, and is an avid oil painter. She is taking all the information she’s learned along the way about the writing and publishing process, and is coaching committed writers. Learn more at https://www.donnaschlachter.com/the-purpose-full-writer-coaching-programs Check out her coaching group on FB: https://www.facebook.com/groups/604220861766651


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Resources:

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Necktie

7 comments:

  1. My husband wore a tie for all his years in his white collar job and had quite a collection. He wore a bowtie for our wedding. I had a few dresses and blouses with attached collars that needed to be tied. A windsor was easier to maintain all day then a large bow. Ties have gone out of style as daily wear unless the boy is in a private school. Even now the shirt and tie are being replaced with polo shirts. More casual wear even at church, leaves many ties still hanging in the closet. Thanks for sharing this, Donna.

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    1. Thanks for stopping by. I see girls in private schools (mostly British, I suspect) wear ties, too.

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  2. What an interesting and informative post. My husband didn't like anything tight about his neck, so he chose clip on ties when he had to wear them. I enjoy seeing the many beautiful ties that men wear, such as our weatherman, he wears gorgeous ones that set off his suit to perfection.

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    1. Thanks for stopping by. Clip-ons were a preference for little boys and for times when men didn't want a noose around their neck :)

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  3. My husband grew up on a farm, blue-collar working class. Ties were and are for funerals and weddings for the most part. If he can get away with a clip-on that's even better!

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  4. Thanks for stopping by. At one point in history, most men wore something around their necks, as did most women. I, for one, am glad I don't have to wear a tie anywhere.

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  5. Keep in mind that the preference for tie-wearing is very much cultural. When our church sends a mission team to Peru, the pastors there ask for neckties, as it is still considered a requirement for church. We took more than 200 ties last year, and even the ones we thought were ugly got snatched up. Ask the missions pastor at your church if the teams you are sending out this year want ties. Clean out your closet!

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