Please note: all images from https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Necktie
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“A rose by any other name is still a rose.” As such, a necktie by any other name is still a necktie. Or is it?
With today being National Bow Tie Day, I thought I’d look into this article of clothing and learn its secrets. I was surprised when I researched this topic that there are many different kinds of neckties. For most of us, the mere word conjures up an image of a long piece of fabric, wider at one end than the other, plain or patterned, and, if you look carefully at the back, consisting of three pieces of fabric cut on the bias. This is a modern-day version of the necktie, but its history is fascinating.
Croatian mercenaries serving in France during the Thirty Years’ War (1618-1648), wore small knotted neckerchiefs. Parisians, always on the lookout for the latest fashion trend, even four hundred years ago, took notice, and began duplicating the design. Apparently, in an attempt to name the article of clothing while giving credit to its origin, cravate came into popular use, a combination of the Croatian word for Croates, Hrvati, and the French word for folks from Croatia, Croates.
Louis XIV began wearing a lace cravat around 1646 at the age of seven, setting the tone for French nobility. His example started a fashion craze in Europe, and men and women alike wore them. Men wore lace versions, which took a lot of time and effort to arrange, and were often held in place with strings, neatly tied in a bow.
In 1715, stocks came into fashion. Originally a name ascribed to a leather collar, laced at the back, and worn by soldiers to remind them to keep their head held high, it also protected the major blood vessels of the neck from attack. General Sherman wore one in American Civil War photographs.
In the late 1700s, cravats made an appearance on the fashion scene again, most likely brought to America by macaronis, young Englishmen returning from Europe who brought with them new ideas about fashion. So, you see, the term in the song “Yankee Doodle” was in common use at the time.
By the 1800s, there was a lot of discussion about the proper way to tie a cravat, leading to publications devoted to the topic. The first, Neckclothitania, contained instructions on tying fourteen different knots. Very soon, a man’s elegance and wealth was judged by the skill and time required to tie his cravat.
In the late 1700s, cravats made an appearance on the fashion scene again, most likely brought to America by macaronis, young Englishmen returning from Europe who brought with them new ideas about fashion. So, you see, the term in the song “Yankee Doodle” was in common use at the time.
By the 1800s, there was a lot of discussion about the proper way to tie a cravat, leading to publications devoted to the topic. The first, Neckclothitania, contained instructions on tying fourteen different knots. Very soon, a man’s elegance and wealth was judged by the skill and time required to tie his cravat.
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| Mathew Brady with long tie c 1875 |
With the Industrial Revolution, more people wanted neckwear that was easy to put on, was comfortable, and would retain their shape and form for an entire workday. It was during this time that the long, thin, and easy to knot version that is familiar to us today was designed. Theodore Roosevelt was the first US president to wear this style, in 1903.
The modern version, cut on the bias, was designed in 1922 by Jesse Langsdorf. He discovered that this technique improved elasticity, allowing the tie to return to its normal shape after wearing and cleaning.
Over the following years, hand-painted ties became a thing in the US, and so the width of the tie increased to accommodate the sometimes-complex artwork.
There are several types of neckties: cravat; four-in-hand; six- and seven-fold ties; skinny tie; pre-tied ties and clip-ons. And there are many knot types. The four main ones are: four-in-hand; Pratt (or Shelby); half-Windsor; and Windsor (sometimes called the full Windsor and the Double Windsor).
The modern version, cut on the bias, was designed in 1922 by Jesse Langsdorf. He discovered that this technique improved elasticity, allowing the tie to return to its normal shape after wearing and cleaning.
Over the following years, hand-painted ties became a thing in the US, and so the width of the tie increased to accommodate the sometimes-complex artwork.
There are several types of neckties: cravat; four-in-hand; six- and seven-fold ties; skinny tie; pre-tied ties and clip-ons. And there are many knot types. The four main ones are: four-in-hand; Pratt (or Shelby); half-Windsor; and Windsor (sometimes called the full Windsor and the Double Windsor).
More recently, researchers have figured out that there are eighty-five knots possible with a conventional tie. They limited the number of “moves” to nine to produce the best results.
Ties are not worn merely as neckwear or something to cover a gaping button line in a shirt. Many wear them as a sign of membership or alumni of colleges, prep schools, sports teams, or as a tartan to denote clan membership in Ireland and Scotland. In some cases, an emblem is embroidered on the plain fabric, while in others, the colors and pattern describe the connection.
Leave a comment to answer the question: Tie? Yes or no?
About Donna:
Leave a comment to answer the question: Tie? Yes or no?
About Donna: