On a rainy afternoon, a coat made from waterproof, breathable fabric keeps me dry and comfortable—a luxury, for sure.
Early civilizations used materials they found in their environment to help ward off the elements, mostly plants and animals. Capes woven from natural fibers, such as grass, straw, and cedar, served the purpose. The scent of cedar would also keep insects and snakes away—an added benefit. However, such garments tended to be bulky and vulnerable to fire.
Animal furs and skins were naturally waterproof. Even sheep’s wool contains natural lanolin, rendering it water-resistant.
Alternatively, fats and oils from animals and plants could be rubbed on clothing to keep moisture out. Sailors commonly used linseed oil for coats and sails. The smell was worth it if a person stayed dry.
Tribes with
access to rubber trees had the best natural resource of all. Native Americans
in southern Mexico created rubberized fabrics sometime before 1600 BCE.
When Europeans traveled to Mexico in the 15th and 16th centuries, they tried to import the trees. However, the plants didn’t grow well in colder climates.
The most
significant breakthrough came in 1823 when Scotsman Charles MacIntosh squeezed
liquid rubber between two pieces of fabric and pressed them together.
He didn’t set out to revolutionize rainwear. As a chemist, he was trying to find uses for waste products in the steel-making process. He determined that coal-tar naphtha would dissolve rubber. He put this dissolved rubber between the pieces of fabric.
Though the
fabric was completely waterproof, it wasn’t without problems. In hot weather,
it became sticky, and in cold weather, it was stiff. When tailors sewed a coat,
they poked holes, creating leaks. Also, body heat made the wearer very sweaty,
and body oils would cause the fabric to deteriorate over time. And there was a
rubber smell.
When no one wanted to use his fabric to make coats, MacIntosh set up his own factories. There, he addressed a number of the complaints. The most significant improvement came when Vulcanized rubber was invented by Charles Goodyear (think tires). Sulfur was added to the rubber, making it more flexible and less impacted by temperature changes.
MacIntosh
also sealed the seams, preventing leaks, and created air holes under the
armpits to let the coat breathe.
Gabardine was
invented in 1879. It is a fabric made from cotton or wool, which has been
tightly woven into a twill that funnels water downward. All kinds of waterproof
garments were made from gabardine. It was a favorite for use in military trench
coats. The durability and comfort of the fabric made it perfect for wartime
use.
The advertisement for gabardine (above) lists the following advantages.
1. Absolute
freedom for all limb movements.
2. Extra
durability in wear.
3. Perfect
air-porousness and almost negligible weight.
4. An
especially smart and sportsmanlike appearance.
5. Practical
impermeability to wet, cold winds and fish hooks.
In
the early 1900s, other rubberization techniques allowed for manufacturing
different kinds of raincoats. And in 1930, cellophane and plastics came into
use.
Raincoat technology has continued to evolve with a variety of materials and effectiveness. I, for one, am glad to wear something other than a giant grass coat that probably leaked.
***
”Mending Sarah’s Heart” in the Thimbles and Threads Collection
Four
historical romances celebrating the arts of sewing and quilting.
Mending
Sarah’s Heart by Suzanne Norquist
Rockledge,
Colorado, 1884
Sarah
seeks a quiet life as a seamstress. She doesn’t need anyone, especially her
dead husband’s partner. If only the Emporium of Fashion would stop stealing her
customers, and the local hoodlums would leave her sons alone. When she rejects
her husband’s share of the mine, his partner Jack seeks to serve her through
other means. But will his efforts only push her further away?
Suzanne
Norquist is the
author of two novellas, “A Song for Rose” in A Bouquet of Brides Collection and “Mending Sarah’s Heart” in the Thimbles and Threads Collection. Everything fascinates her. She has
worked as a chemist, professor, financial analyst, and even earned a doctorate
in economics. Research feeds her curiosity, and she shares the adventure with
her readers. She lives in New Mexico with her mining engineer husband and has
two grown children. When not writing, she explores the mountains, hikes, and
attends kickboxing class.
Thank you for posting today. Who would have thought everything that went into the making of a simple raincoat! I agree with you, so much better than the alternatives!
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