The Evolution and Struggles of Farmers Markets in America

 

 

 

Today I thought it would be fun to explore the origin of farmers markets in America. Grant it, farmers and artisans selling their wares in open markets goes back to ancient times globally. For this blog, I’ll touch on the highlights in the United States.

Farmers markets began in the 1600s in Colonial America. Farmers brought their produce to town to sell directly to consumers. Often bartering with others for things they could not grow or make themselves. This was a great place to socialize and share farming tips. Small towns relied on the Farmers Market to provide what the local mercantile couldn’t.

As transportation and the industrial revolution took hold, farmers sold their goods wholesale to canneries, reducing what they sold directly to consumers. Farmers’ markets began to disappear as grocery stores became a city staple. Let’s look a bit closer.

 

Lancaster, Pennsylvania Market

In 1730, when city planners laid out the plat survey for Lancaster, they set aside a 120 square foot area in the center of town as a public market. This was a place for farmers to bring their seasonal produce as well as meat, fish and poultry to sell or barter. At some point in history, there were 400 vendors. This market still exists today.

Industrial age

Cannery labels from the 1920s

As transportation and canneries developed during the industrial age, more farmers sold their goods to wholesalers. Their profit might be smaller depending on the wholesaler and the economy. Farmers continued to sell goods from their wagons on the curbs in towns, but over time, cities passed many laws making curbside sales illegal. This forced farmers to sell their goods to wholesalers and not directly to consumers in town. Some farmers set up roadside booths on their own property near the road to sell excess produce.

Great Depression and Wartime

Female shopper circa 1940s 

During the Great Depression, farmers struggled to get good prices from canneries that sold their products to stores nationwide. Grocery Stores were very popular, and farmers were at the mercy of their buyers. Grocery Stores had grown in popularity. Farmers were at the mercy of wholesalers. Some farmers found themselves throwing away food because the wholesaler offered insulting prices.

Farmers Market in California 

 

As World War II raged, farmers were desperate to sell their goods. John Brucato noted an empty lot on the corner of Market and Duboce in San Francisco and arranged for farmers to bring their produce to town on a Thursday in August in 1943. By 6:30, housewives arrived by streetcar ready to buy fresh produce. They’d saved their ration cards for just such a purchase. Brucato estimated the crowd lingered around 1000. This was risky business for the farmers who had fruit rotting on the ground because canneries offered so little. The wholesalers threatened them and many farmers hesitated to take their food to the market.  At 8:00 am, six farm trucks showed up and they sold out of all their produce within two hours, earning them more than five times what the canneries paid. The next day 25 farmers showed up and by Saturday 135 farmers were selling their goods. The San Francisco’s Farmer’s Market was born.

USDA Steps in

It was barely legal for farmers to vend their goods within the city limits, but market square was private property. The city’s wholesaler produce merchants, and grocers vehemently opposed the market. Some had warned farmers to stay away from that first market. They were accused of being unfair competition and trying to bring an end to grocery stores. Accusing them of selling inferior produce to consumers, they lobbied the city for stricter regulations for the farmers. The final ruling favored the farmers’ market, concluding it was only a temporary solution to food shortages the nation was experiencing during World War II. They projected it would disband six months after the war ended. Even so, the contention between the two groups continued. On November 6, 1945, proposition 16 was brought before the voters. It simply stated, “The Farmers’ Market shall be continued beyond the time limitation now established by ordinances.” When the ballots were counted, the Yes won by 5 to 1. This market has been in operation every Saturday morning for 75 seasons.

Markets today

This is the market you'll find me at most Saturdays.Love this logo. 

 

In the 21^st century, markets are common in many towns across the country. They offer fresh produce, farm fresh eggs, fresh cheese, homemade baked goods, even meat products, and more. The FDA has relaxed standards on farmers’ market vendors and even allows SNAP cards to be used for various food items. Not only are buyers interested in fresh produce and handcrafted items, but also desire to support home businesses. The addition of craft and art items (i.e. my books) brings people to the market who might not bother. As in the distant past, markets today are often in the center of town near stores. This draws more foot-traffic to farmers’ markets and more visitors to nearby businesses.

Changes to the market

Markets need a specific percentage of vendors who sell produce and food items to qualify for government programs that provide food for low-income families. Beyond that, there is room for vendors like me who offer their own handmade items. Being able to vend at events like these is amazing. As in days gone by, the vendors feel like family, sharing tips and interesting solutions for crops and selling tips. And I find readers who love to read paperback books are thrilled to see my books at their market. So fun.

Have you ever been to a farmers’ market? What did you buy?

Cindy Ervin Huff, is a multi-published award-winning author. A 2018 Selah Finalist. She has a passion to encourage other writers on their journey. When she isn’t writing, she feeds her addiction to reading and enjoys her retirement with her husband of 50 plus years, Charles. Visit her at www.cindyervinhuff.com.