Where Did The Tradition of Big Belt Buckles Come From?

By Jennifer Uhlarik

 

If you’re a fan of country music, cowboys, or any sort of western culture, you’re probably very familiar with the large and glitzy belt buckles worn by those in that world. But have you ever wondered how the ornate buckle became synonymous with cowboys and western life? I did, so I thought I’d share what I found with you.

Notice the waist cinch and suspenders.

Early on in American history, pants weren’t made with belt loops. In fact, these utilitarian strips of fabric didn’t make an appearance on pants until 1922, when Levi Strauss began including the feature on his denim jeans. Prior to that, many trousers came equipped with a small cinch across the back that could be tightened to help the waist fit better—or people used suspenders to hold up their pants.

 

An unknown Union soldier with prominent belt buckle.

But in 1861, the Civil War broke out, and belts with a prominent brass buckle were part of the uniforms worn by both sides. The belts often held an ammunition box, a sword’s scabbard, pistol holster, or other necessary items. The buckles were usually emblazoned with “CSA” for Confederate States of America or “US” for the Federal soldiers—or some had eagles with their wings spread wide. At the war’s end, many men continued to wear parts of their uniforms, since supplies were scarce—so the belts became a bit more common.

Robert E. Lee with a belt and buckle.

 

Belts and their buckles became more mainstream as the American west opened up—and people needed a reliable way to carry a sidearm. Many of the Texas Rangers converted their uniform belts into gun belts, and the belts, buckles, and holsters began to transition to a more ornate style. No longer were the belts just simple straps of leather with a brass buckle. In this era, leather workers began tooling the leather with intricate patterns, both on the belt and the holster, and silversmiths developed more ornate three-piece buckles. Loops were sewn into the belt to carry extra bullets, and a whole new style developed.

William F. "Buffalo Bill" Cody, who led one of the best-known Wild West Shows.
Notice his large belt buckle.

 

In the 1870s, the Wild West show became prominent. Actors and notable figures of the era donned western-styled costumes and regalia to entertain and wow audiences with feats of horsemanship, shooting, and reenactments of western events. In turn, this gave way to moving pictures. The first western movies—a series of silent reels—was put out by Thomas Edison’s studio in 1894, and the popularity grew from there. Many of the early western movies gave moviegoers quick snapshots of what life on the frontier was like. As actors portrayed life out west on stage and screen, the ornate gun belts and large buckles that held them in place became a common sight across America. The belt and its buckle was becoming mainstream.

John Wayne in a 1930s-era movie,
sporting a belt and gun belt.

 

Then, enter the rodeo. As I wrote about in an earlier post, the rodeo has a long history dating back to early ranch life. But as the rodeo became a professional group of sports with a union and set rules, along with that came trophies—in the form of ornate belt buckles for the top-placing competitors. The higher one placed in a given event, the larger the buckle one could win.

 

So there you have it—the history of the western belt buckle. From a non-existent object to a utilitarian bit of metal, all the way to a wearable trophy, this fashion statement has embedded itself into America’s history and culture.

It's Your Turn: Do you like the big, glitzy western belt buckles as a fashion statement? Why or why not?

Jennifer Uhlarik discovered western novels at twelve when she swiped the only “horse” book from her brother’s bookshelf. Across the next decade, she devoured westerns and fell in love with the genre. While attaining a B.A. in writing from the University of Tampa, she began penning her own story of the Old West. She has finaled in and won numerous writing competitions and appeared on various best-seller lists. Besides writing, she’s been a business owner, a schoolteacher, a marketing director, a historical researcher, a publisher, and a full-time homemaker. She lives near Tampa, Florida, with her husband and fur children.

 

 

Love and Order: A Three-Part Old West Romantic Mystery

Wanted: 

Family, Love, and Justice

One Old West Mystery Solved Throughout Three Short Romantic Stories

Separated as children when they were adopted out to different families from an orphan train, the Braddock siblings have each grown up and taken on various jobs within law enforcement and criminal justice.

 

Youngest child, Callie, has pushed past her insecurities to pursue a career as a Pinkerton agent. Middle child, Andi, has spent years studying law under her adoptive father’s tutelage. And the eldest and only son, Rion, is a rough-and-tumble bounty hunter. 

 

When the hunt for a serial killer with a long history of murders reunites the brother and sisters in Cambria Springs, Colorado, they find themselves not only in a fight for justice, but also a fight to keep their newly reunited family intact. How will they navigate these challenges when further complicated by unexpected romances?