More Than Myths: What Women Actually Wore Under Their Dresses
by Kimberly Keagan
My books all take place in the Gilded Age, and I try to incorporate historical facts about events, clothing, and even weather. But not that long ago, my daughter brought me to task when one of my female characters made a quip about corsets cutting off her breath. “You know,” my daughter said, “that’s not historically accurate.”
Really? It seems like modern movies and books all depict the torture that was the corset. I’ve even seen articles in newspapers from the 1800s in which doctors claimed corsets were bad for a woman’s health. But knowing that my daughter tends to be correct more often than I’d like to admit, I did some digging.
What I discovered is that while corsets were certainly part of the expectations placed on women of the past, many of the common assumptions don’t hold up to historical fact—and the corset had many practical uses.
Before the Victorian corset, women in the Regency era wore stays—lightly boned garments with shoulder straps and a stiff busk in front. Their purpose was to support the bust and create smooth lines under high-waist gowns.
by Kimberly Keagan
My books all take place in the Gilded Age, and I try to incorporate historical facts about events, clothing, and even weather. But not that long ago, my daughter brought me to task when one of my female characters made a quip about corsets cutting off her breath. “You know,” my daughter said, “that’s not historically accurate.”
Really? It seems like modern movies and books all depict the torture that was the corset. I’ve even seen articles in newspapers from the 1800s in which doctors claimed corsets were bad for a woman’s health. But knowing that my daughter tends to be correct more often than I’d like to admit, I did some digging.
What I discovered is that while corsets were certainly part of the expectations placed on women of the past, many of the common assumptions don’t hold up to historical fact—and the corset had many practical uses.
Before the Victorian corset, women in the Regency era wore stays—lightly boned garments with shoulder straps and a stiff busk in front. Their purpose was to support the bust and create smooth lines under high-waist gowns.
Corset, American or European, 1790-1810
Image: The Metropolitan Museum of Art (Open Access) at metmuseum.org
Image: The Metropolitan Museum of Art (Open Access) at metmuseum.org
By the mid-1800s, Joseph Cooper
patented the familiar front-opening corset, making daily dressing
dramatically easier. No lady needed a maid stationed behind her every
morning just to lace her in—she could fasten the corset herself and then
adjust the laces as needed.
And, yes, people wore corsets every day. Not just women in drawing rooms, but shopkeepers, mothers, cooks, laundresses, and factory workers. A garment that made you faint or prevented you from bending over simply wouldn’t survive real life.
One of the biggest misunderstandings about corsets comes from imagining them worn directly against the skin. That simply wasn’t the case. First came the chemise or shift—a soft cotton or linen undergarment worn against the skin to protect the corset from sweat, oils, and everyday wear. The corset was then placed over the chemise. It provided lift, posture, and the fashionable silhouette of the era—usually far gentler than modern myths suggest. Over that came a thin cotton corset cover, worn to soften boning lines, prevent snagging, and add modesty under light-colored blouses. It was practical, but often very pretty, too.
And, yes, people wore corsets every day. Not just women in drawing rooms, but shopkeepers, mothers, cooks, laundresses, and factory workers. A garment that made you faint or prevented you from bending over simply wouldn’t survive real life.
One of the biggest misunderstandings about corsets comes from imagining them worn directly against the skin. That simply wasn’t the case. First came the chemise or shift—a soft cotton or linen undergarment worn against the skin to protect the corset from sweat, oils, and everyday wear. The corset was then placed over the chemise. It provided lift, posture, and the fashionable silhouette of the era—usually far gentler than modern myths suggest. Over that came a thin cotton corset cover, worn to soften boning lines, prevent snagging, and add modesty under light-colored blouses. It was practical, but often very pretty, too.
The Chemise, American or European, 1860-61, metmuseum.org
Corset, England, 1860, metmueseum.org
Corset Cover, American, 1887, metmuseum.org
Contrary to modern commentary, the illusion of a tiny waist wasn’t created by an overly cinched corset, but by dramatic skirt supports. Attached to the waist or hips, these gave skirts their shape—bell forms in the 1850s and bustles in the 1870s–90s. Only after all of that did the woman’s dress go on.
Each layer had a purpose, and together they made movement—and modesty—possible. Could they leap high hurdles in their corsets? Probably not. But the idea that they couldn’t bend, breathe, or function simply isn’t accurate. Tight-lacing certainly existed, but it was unusual and widely debated even in its own day. Doctors warned against it, clergy condemned it, and newspapers wrote satirical cartoons about women who pursued extreme fashion at the expense of good sense. However, most women didn’t lace themselves anywhere near those extremes. Much like tying shoes—you tighten them enough for support, not enough to prevent walking.
And one more myth-buster: women weren’t the only ones who wore corsets. Throughout the 1800s, men often wore them to achieve the fashionable slim waist that complemented their fitted coats and trousers. Companies even advertised men’s corsets for improved posture and spinal complaints.
Understanding what women actually wore—layer by layer—gives us a clearer, kinder picture of their lives. Yes, corsets reflected the beauty standards and expectations of their time. But they were also practical, supportive garments that women lived, worked, worshiped, and raised families in. Truth be told, they were far more practical than some of the things women wear today. Like four-inch heels!
About the author:
Kimberly Keagan is a former corporate financial writer (not very romantic) who now crafts historical romances filled with strong heroines, swoon-worthy heroes, faith, and a touch of humor. Her debut novel, Perfect, released in May 2025. Go to KimberlyKeagan.com and download her free Christmas novelette!
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