How Many Patents Does It Take to Sew a Dress?

By Suzanne Norquist

I often think of a sewing machine as a single, compact unit, but a multitude of discrete parts fill its insides, each requiring a unique design and its own patent. So, what happens when different inventors own patents to various parts of the same machine? 

In the case of sewing machines in the mid-1800s, this led to bickering, patent infringement, and lawsuits between would-be manufacturers. Finally, the inventors came together to create the first-ever patent pool in US history, known as the Sewing Machine Trust. Over time, other industries involving complex technologies (like airplanes) followed this example. Then, of course, the government stepped in with antitrust laws to prevent monopolies. (But that’s another story.)

Nine patents were included in the Sewing Machine Trust, and inventors received royalties on every machine sold. Anyone could purchase a license and set their own price for the finished product. 

From the mid-1700s, various inventors tried to build a machine to mimic the motions of hand sewing. However, no one successfully mechanized a single needle with a hole at the back end like seamstresses used.

In 1834, Walter Hunt, a mechanic from New York City, designed a crude machine that used two threads with an interlocking stitch. The curved upper needle had an eye in the point. A shuttle pulled a second thread through the other side. Without an automatic feed and presser foot, the process was clunky. He sold a few machines but didn’t obtain a patent.

Building on this early design, Elias Howe patented the first working sewing machine in 1846. He included the presser foot and feed. When he failed to raise funding in America, he went to England and sold some machines. Three years later, when he returned to the United States, he found others, including Isaac Singer, building his machine without permission. And, thus, the patent wars began. 

Meanwhile, other inventors made improvements to the machines that would be included in the patent pool. Most of them built upon existing mechanisms.

In 1856, the Sewing Machine Trust was formed. It charged licensing fees and divided the proceeds among the inventors. Howe received a larger portion, since legal action had proved that his earlier patent was valid.

With a level playing field, sewing machine companies focused on marketing. Initially, twenty-four manufacturers jumped on the opportunity. By 1877, when the original patent expired, only two of the companies remained.

Isaac Singer, the name synonymous with sewing machines, thrived in this environment. This bully, cheat, and womanizer (who fathered at least 24 children) knew how to market the machines. He had tinkered in mechanics and failed as an actor, but he teamed up with men who could improve the product and create unique markets.

Singer’s company was purchased by his partner, Edward Clark, in the 1860s. It developed machines for home use and marketed directly to women. Installment plans made them affordable. As part of this effort, they created beautiful cabinets that women would want in their homes. The company also used mass production and interchangeable parts, lowering costs. By 1900, the Singer Company boasted 80% of all sales.

So, how many patents does it take to sew a dress? In 1856, it took nine. 

Not only did the Sewing Machine Trust change how clothes were made, but it also transformed how businesses managed patents for complex machines, ushering in the technological age.

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Love In Bloom 4-in-one collection

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“Periwinkle in the Park” by Kathleen E. Kovach

A female hiking guide, who is helping to commission a national park, runs into conflict with a mountain man determined to keep the government off his land.

“A Beauty in a Tansy”

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Republished from Bouquet of Brides

Buy links: https://books2read.com/u/bOOx8K

https://www.amazon.com/Love-Bloom-Mary-Davis/dp/B0FPLFYCXR/

Suzanne Norquist is the author of two novellas. Everything fascinates her. She has worked as a chemist, professor, financial analyst, and even earned a doctorate in economics. Research feeds her curiosity, and she shares the adventure with her readers. She lives in New Mexico with her mining engineer husband and has two grown children. When not writing, she explores the mountains, hikes, and attends kickboxing class.