A Festive Cena: Evening Dining with Rome’s Elite

by Liisa Eyerly

In ancient Rome, how—and what—you ate was one of the clearest markers of where you stood in society—food drew one of the sharpest lines between power and poverty. Roman Feast by Roberto Bompiani, Public domain, via Wikimedia Commons

For the elite, dining was a spectacle. Every meal, especially the evening banquet, was a stage, every dish a declaration. Imported spices, rare fruits, exotic meats—these weren’t just foods, but symbols, proclaiming wealth, influence, and control. Servants, silver and gold dinnerware, and ceremony transformed eating into a performance of dominance.

For the poor, food meant survival. Their tables held plain bread, humble grains, and whatever olives, vegetables, or scraps could be afforded. No luxury, no variety—just the bare essentials to endure another day of labor.

Two worlds shared the same city, but not the same table.

Supper or Cena (Main Meal) late afternoon to evening.

Poor—when they returned home from work, often after dark.
Elite—known for their socializing and dinner parties that could last several hours, with reclining couches, entertainment, and wine. An elaborate procession of gustatio–prima mensa–secunda mensa. Three (or more) courses - Appetizer - Main course - Dessert. Often followed by an after-dinner drinking party.

No Guests, No Showmanship
Anonymous Unknown author, Public domain, via Wikimedia Commons
Even wealthy Romans didn’t stage a banquet every night. When it was just the family, Cena was:

✨ 1. Smaller in Scale
Fewer courses—often just two (a main course and a simple dessert).

✨ 2. More Comfortable and Intimate
Reclining was still common, but the atmosphere was relaxed.
Family members ate together without the pressure of political theater.
Fewer slaves were needed for serving—maybe just a couple instead of a full staff.

✨ 3. Traditional, Not Showy

Without guests to impress, Roman elites didn’t waste expensive delicacies. Nothing that required exotic ingredients or hours of preparation—just good household cooking.
Instead of flamingo tongues or peacock, they might eat:
· Grilled fish or chicken
· Vegetables like cabbage, leeks, or lentils
· Bread and cheese
· Fruit in season
When not entertaining, even the elites did not eat tons of meat, but when they did, fish, seafood, poultry, smoked pork liver sausage, roasted goat, boiled hare, and baked scrambled eggs were common. Vatican Museums, Public domain, via Wikimedia Commons

✨ 4. Even on a Modest Night, the Meals of the Elite Were Still Better Than the Poor.
· The oil was of better quality – pressed from their own olive groves
· The bread was fresher – baked daily at home
· The produce was more varied – harvested from their personal farms and orchards
· The meat was regular, not rare – supplied from their own farms, often just outside the city or town
· Spices like pepper or coriander were used freely

Some of these foods sound surprisingly modern until you discover recipes from the Roman chef Apicius, for fish liver pudding, stuffed dormice, brain-stuffed squash fritters, and rose patina, a baked dish of scrambled brain and eggs, flavored with roses.

Three of the Strangest Foods Elite Romans Actually Ate

1. Stuffed Dormice  
These little rodents fattened on nuts and acorns. The elite stuffed them with minced pork, pepper, pine nuts, and honey, then roasted them to a golden crisp.
A luxury delicacy—but to modern diners, the idea alone is… memorable.

2. Flamingo Tongues (served at a dinner party in book three, “Powers of Death”)
Yes… flamingos. Elite Romans prized the bird’s bright feathers and considered the tongue the true delicacy. Cookbooks describe boiling them with dates, wine, pepper, and vinegar.

They weren’t eaten for taste so much as for shock value—proof that the host had the means to serve the rarest, most impractical foods.

3. Jellyfish and Sea Urchin Custard
Recipes based on Apicius’s Cookbook IX (1st–4th-century cookbook in modern wording), include recipes for cooked jellyfish dressed with vinegar, oil, and herbs, and for sea urchins mashed into a thick custard. Part seafood, part dessert: this savory-sweet, custard-like dish was meant to impress (or intimidate!) dinner guests.
Alexcooper1 at English Wikipedia (Alex Pronove)  

Apicius’ Sea Urchin Custard.
Ingredients:
Fresh sea urchins (whole)
Eggs
Pepper
Liquamen or garum (Roman fish sauce)
Passum (sweet raisin wine) or another sweet wine
Optional: a little oil 

Directions:
· Pierce the sea urchins and blend their contents with eggs.
· Season with pepper, liquamen, and sweet wine.
· Pour the mixture back into the shells—or small clay dishes
· Gently cook in hot water in its shell (or in a small dish) until set like a custard mixture
· Serve warm with a sprinkle of pepper

Romans didn’t necessarily love it… But they loved showing they could afford it. Remember, food wasn’t always about taste—it was about wealth, novelty, and the status of serving something rare and difficult to prepare. A true marquee item for a lavish Roman feast. Next month, we’ll delve into the rich world of Roman wines.

For more authentic ancient Roman recipes for modern kitchens, including garum and Roman cheese cake, you can visit Laura Hauser’s website 18 Authentic Ancient Roman Recipes for Modern Kitchens - Recipes For Life

SECRETS OF EPHESUS SERIES

The award-winning series unveils gripping historical mysteries set in the perilous world of ancient Rome. In Obedient unto Death, a scribe is murdered during an illicit Christian gathering. Sabina, a fearless believer, navigates a treacherous world of deceit and betrayal to discover the killer.

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Liisa’s books have been called a cross between Agatha Christie and Francine Rivers. Her mystery, Obedient Unto Death, won the Eric Hoffer First Horizon Award for a debut novel and first place in the Spiritual Fiction category. The sequel, Fortunes of Death, continues the Secrets of Ephesus series, weaving fascinating Christian twists into the historical mystery genre of the first-century Roman Empire. Liisa’s travels to Turkey, Greece, and Italy have enriched her stories with vivid depictions of New Testament culture, history, and people.

Over the years, she’s been a teacher, small business owner, librarian, and lifelong learner. She and her husband live in northern Wisconsin, where she channels her love of history, faith, and mystery into writing captivating and inspiring novels.

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