Showing posts with label Paris. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Paris. Show all posts

Friday, January 3, 2025

Double Legacies of 19th Century Paris


Ah the New Year. It is January 3, 2025. Did you choose and are you still upholding your resolutions? Did you select “a word” for 2025? Whether or not you are steadfast in either or already in regret, time marches on.

What if we could consider another angle for the remaining 362 days?

What will we leave behind?

I’m not referring to a will or progeny. I am offering the concept of rendering something that will help your fellow man. Perhaps you give of your time, talents, and possessions to a charity? Maybe you volunteer at a hospital or museum? Do you contribute to your field of work? Are you a writer, blogger, or author, and you part with words for this generation and the subsequent? Whatever the case may be, we all have opportunities to give. Perhaps they are large in scale? Or maybe our gestures are small, but they are no less important. 

Whether you dedicate yourself to a current cause and your efforts are for the here and now, or you contribute to a legacy - ponder the possibility of helping another. Art. Education. Industry. Faith. There are numerous paths to take. Any present thoughts?

As I considered what to write for this month, I was also lamenting the lack of travel in 2024. Life was full and journeys were sparse. Even in those times, joy existed in reflection of where I’ve been, what I’ve seen. I searched through photos to discover if there was anything I had not shared from prior trips. This led me to the Musée Jacquemart-André. Fitting, as this mansion belonged to a couple who gave of their Art collection and abode for all who visit after, to learn about the culture of their days. Also apropos, the overhaul of Paris in the late 1800s, early 1900s.

It is important to understand the landscape of this couple's time. In the 19th century Napoleon III (third son of Louis Bonaparte, who was the third brother of Napoleon Bonaparte), entrusted Baron Georges-Eugène Haussmann to redesign the city of Paris. As the Prefect of the Seine Department, Haussmann (who did not have a background in architecture) overhauled the urban layout. From 1853 – 1927, his crews demolished entire areas of the city.

At a dark time riddled with disease and in a crowded landscape, Haussmann razed over 12,000 medieval buildings. These demolitions did not have the advantage of bulldozers. Sheer laborer grit, muscle, wheelbarrows, and basic tools accomplished the tasks. Instead of a maze of streets, he created a grid with elegant boulevards and over 40,000 new structures. As a goal, he featured monuments as centerpieces for diagonal streets. One iconic example is the Arc de Triomphe amidst twelve arterials.


Haussmann established a unified look with most of the designs featuring six stories or less. Freestone with its light gray hue adorned the outside. The bottom floor and mezzanines contained businesses, shops, and restaurants and had the tallest ceilings. Many intricate doors adorn these levels.

The second floor with 10.5’ ceilings housed the elite of the time. The dressiest portions of the exterior touted iron balconies and ornate details. Interiors touted intricate molding and parquet herringbone patterns.





This balcony at left stands out as the long-time resident seeks to bring the outside in. Lovely, no?

While the fifth floor also had balconies, they were only for balance in the appearance of the structure. The sixth-floor attics contained servants’ quarters. In present day, these are coveted as they offer stunning views. The dormer windows and mansard roofs allow more sunlight at street level because of the angles. 

Often there were entrances where the wealthy entered via horse-drawn carriages. In addition, Haussmann established new sewers, viaducts, and fountains. He left margin for Les Halles - the marketplace and the Palais Garnier. You can read about the home of the Paris Opera Ballet in Cindy Kay Stewart’s post. Below, view photos of the carriage door and passageway of the Musée Jacquemart-André, now solely used for foot traffic.


Speaking of the Palais Garnier, the owners of the mansion in question purchased land on Boulevard Haussmann and hired Henri Parent to design their home. Earlier, Parent applied to the Palais project but lost the post to his colleague, Charles Garnier. Inspired by similar classical models, Henri Parent’s use of staircases resembles those in the Palais. Set back from the boulevard, this allows passersby to focus on the equilibrium of the design. 

Palas Garnier interior with steps in photo below at left. Musée Jacquemart-André steps in photo below at right. Notice the similar styles of design, composition, and construction.


Edouard André and his wife Nélie Jacquemart collected paintings from artists of the time, jewelry, ceramics, silverware, tapestries, and miniatures. In the manner of profession, Edouard served as a member of the National Assembly. He started collecting in 1860. Nélie, an artist, continued locally and in travels even after he passed at the age of 60.


Not only did they acquire objects, they sought decoration for the mansion building itself. For example, Giambattista Tiepolo painted a fresco for the Venetian Villa Contarini in 1745. This couple learned of the opportunity to purchase the nearly 150-year-old depiction of a wedding. Logistics did not deter their visions. Eight months of dismantling, transportation, and installation yielded décor for their staircase and dining room. If you observe the bottom right hand portion of the mural, you will see a trompe l'oeil of the painter hanging out and observing the scene. Nifty, yes?


What was life like for Edouard and Nélie? Below you can see her bedroom as the norm for the elite consisted of separate rooms. The couple did not have children and instead devoted themselves to their cause. Parisians and travelers alike benefit from their benevolence to this day.

Elaborate events found them entertaining in this luxurious home. The foyer and stairs offered a place to be seen, much like the purpose of the hall and stairs at Palais Garnier. The dance hall with parquet floors presented entertainment with the musicians playing from the balconies above.



After perusing these vignettes, where are we? We see how Haussmann left a changed landscape recognized worldwide. We learned that Edouard and Nélie left a collection of treasures and a mansion of culture for education and appreciation. 

Do you recall a person who impacted you with their contribution? Will you leave something behind to make a mark?

Happy New Year and may 2025 be more than you imagined!

As a child, Rebecca loved to write. She nurtured this skill as an educator and later as an editor for an online magazine. Rebecca then joined the Cru Ministry - NBS2GO/Neighbor Bible Studies 2GO at its inception. She serves as the YouVersion Content Creator, with over 125 Plans, in 44 languages on the Bible.com app.

Rebecca lives near the mountains with her husband and a rescued dog named Ranger. She is a proud mom of a soldier. If it were up to Rebecca, she would be traveling - right now. First up, trips to see their two grown sons. As a member of ACFW and FHLCW, she tackles the craft of fiction while learning from a host of generous writers. (Rebecca snapped the photos in this post on two Paris trips.)




Wednesday, August 28, 2024

The History of Neckties by Donna Schlachter

Please note: all images from https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Necktie 
 


“A rose by any other name is still a rose.” As such, a necktie by any other name is still a necktie. Or is it?

With today being National Bow Tie Day, I thought I’d look into this article of clothing and learn its secrets. I was surprised when I researched this topic that there are many different kinds of neckties. For most of us, the mere word conjures up an image of a long piece of fabric, wider at one end than the other, plain or patterned, and, if you look carefully at the back, consisting of three pieces of fabric cut on the bias. This is a modern-day version of the necktie, but its history is fascinating.

Croatian mercenaries serving in France during the Thirty Years’ War (1618-1648), wore small knotted neckerchiefs. Parisians, always on the lookout for the latest fashion trend, even four hundred years ago, took notice, and began duplicating the design. Apparently, in an attempt to name the article of clothing while giving credit to its origin, cravate came into popular use, a combination of the Croatian word for Croates, Hrvati, and the French word for folks from Croatia, Croates.

Louis XIV began wearing a lace cravat around 1646 at the age of seven, setting the tone for French nobility. His example started a fashion craze in Europe, and men and women alike wore them. Men wore lace versions, which took a lot of time and effort to arrange, and were often held in place with strings, neatly tied in a bow.
In 1715, stocks came into fashion. Originally a name ascribed to a leather collar, laced at the back, and worn by soldiers to remind them to keep their head held high, it also protected the major blood vessels of the neck from attack. General Sherman wore one in American Civil War photographs.

In the late 1700s, cravats made an appearance on the fashion scene again, most likely brought to America by macaronis, young Englishmen returning from Europe who brought with them new ideas about fashion. So, you see, the term in the song “Yankee Doodle” was in common use at the time.

By the 1800s, there was a lot of discussion about the proper way to tie a cravat, leading to publications devoted to the topic. The first, Neckclothitania, contained instructions on tying fourteen different knots. Very soon, a man’s elegance and wealth was judged by the skill and time required to tie his cravat.
Mathew Brady with long tie c 1875
 
With the Industrial Revolution, more people wanted neckwear that was easy to put on, was comfortable, and would retain their shape and form for an entire workday. It was during this time that the long, thin, and easy to knot version that is familiar to us today was designed. Theodore Roosevelt was the first US president to wear this style, in 1903.

The modern version, cut on the bias, was designed in 1922 by Jesse Langsdorf. He discovered that this technique improved elasticity, allowing the tie to return to its normal shape after wearing and cleaning.

Over the following years, hand-painted ties became a thing in the US, and so the width of the tie increased to accommodate the sometimes-complex artwork.

There are several types of neckties: cravat; four-in-hand; six- and seven-fold ties; skinny tie; pre-tied ties and clip-ons. And there are many knot types. The four main ones are: four-in-hand; Pratt (or Shelby); half-Windsor; and Windsor (sometimes called the full Windsor and the Double Windsor).
More recently, researchers have figured out that there are eighty-five knots possible with a conventional tie. They limited the number of “moves” to nine to produce the best results.
Ties are not worn merely as neckwear or something to cover a gaping button line in a shirt. Many wear them as a sign of membership or alumni of colleges, prep schools, sports teams, or as a tartan to denote clan membership in Ireland and Scotland. In some cases, an emblem is embroidered on the plain fabric, while in others, the colors and pattern describe the connection.





Leave a comment to answer the question: Tie? Yes or no?



About Donna:

 
A hybrid author, Donna writes squeaky clean historical and contemporary suspense. She has been published more than 60 times in books; is a member of several writers groups; facilitates a critique group; teaches writing classes; and judges in writing contests. She loves history and research, traveling extensively for both, and is an avid oil painter. She is taking all the information she’s learned along the way about the writing and publishing process, and is coaching committed writers. Learn more at https://www.donnaschlachter.com/the-purpose-full-writer-coaching-programs Check out her coaching group on FB: https://www.facebook.com/groups/604220861766651


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Resources:

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Necktie