Fact or Fiction? The Absence of Under Clothes During the Regency

What About Those Underclothes?
 by Linore Rose Burkard

Rumor has it that women's clothing during the Regency lacked sufficient underclothing. But was it true?

During the 18th century, women were required to wear layers and layers of clothing consisting largely of underclothes. Chemises, stockings, stays (corsets), hoops, panniers, and often many layers of
petticoats. By the time of the Regency, costume had undergone a downright shocking reversal. The change began in France, the center of fashion, which took its ideas from classical Greek and Roman styles of antiquity (as in the illustration, below). The new styles caused the heavy layers of underclothing to be largely discarded.

Greek costume that influenced the Empire Style

It was, if you will, no less than a fashion revolution. 


Some French women of the upper class went so far that underclothing was in danger of becoming downright extinct.  When this “Empire Style” crossed the channel into England, however, it became
less risqué, thanks to the more modest English. 

(This explains why the quintessential Regency style dress has an "Empire" waist.  The style began during the reign of Napoleon, who fashioned himself emperor--ruler of an empire.)   

Regency Corsets

In England, the ideal of a long,
straight dress, revealing the human figure beneath was still in vogue, however, so all those petticoats from the previous century had to go.  Same for the long corsets, the hoops, and panniers.  What remained was a simple chemise, usually accompanied by a short corset (called “stays”) which served to raise and support the bust. It was a precursor to the modern bra. 


This is where personal taste came into
play. The long, straight line of the figure was the fashionable ideal which precluded the use of bulky under-garments. Most ladies, nevertheless,
assuredly wore underclothing. The chemise was a mainstay of the wardrobe, and the petticoat never disappeared completely. The Regency is famous in
caricature for the lack of female undergarments, but this propensity of exhibitionism was far less
common than the cartoonists of the day (or some modern novelists) would have you think.


Most women, like Jane Austen herself-- wore utterly sufficient undergarments, and, indeed, dressed quite modestly. The Empire day-dress, if it did not have a high neckline, used sundry manner of textile trickery to conceal the bust (such as
frills, lace, ruches and ruffs, and even light spencers) so that day garments were in particular extremely modest.

 

Josephine, as Empress

Evening dress was admittedly more revealing, requiring a square, low bodice, but women were free to use shawls, scarves, feathers, veils and what-not
(all of which came in an amazing array of sizes and styles, especially as
the Regency wore on), so that they could easily appear more modestly if  desired. Even to modern eyes, however, bodices from the day are revealing; but again this was mostly the case for evening wear, and
more formal occasions. The scantily clad lady sitting in the library
reading just wasn't the way it went, no matter how romance novel designers choose to portray it. And ladies without undergarments of any kind were, without question, a rarity.

Even drawers were worn by women as early as 1804, though admittedly not yet popular. (Left: 19th
century American women’s drawers)iv They were taken from men's clothing and considered coarse
and crude. Princess Charlotte was discovered to use them, however, which (despite shocking the
older set), did much to popularize them with the masses, who adored her.

VERDICT: Did Regency women abandon underclothes? No, this is a FICTION.

BONUS:  Subscribe to Linore's ezine and receive a coloring e-book companion to this article (for grown ups who love fashion!). (Greek and Roman Styles that Influenced the Regency.)  Leave a comment with your email address and let us know you subscribed (at LinoreBurkard.com) and Linore will send you the fun coloring book! Simply print out the pages you want to color, or just enjoy the fashion plates.

 

Linore Rose Burkard  is best known for her Inspirational Regency Romance Series, which whisks readers back in time to early 19th century England. Eye-popping detail and heart-warming adventure are par for the course in her books. Fans of romance in the tradition of Austen and Heyer (such as Pride & Prejudice, Cotillion, and even My Fair Lady), enjoy meeting Linore's feisty heroines and dashing heros.

Mentioning the Unmentionables

By Tiffany Amber Stockton


Have you ever wondered how women of the 1800s managed to look they way they did without dry cleaners or department stores? Imagine trying to pull off the wasp waist of the 1950s or the S-curve of 1900 without the proper girdle or corset. Translate this to the 1800's and you can imagine a time when Victoria was the Queen of England instead of a secret place where women shop and men just feel embarrassed. :)

According to Sharon Gooley, expert on antique clothing, the secret to a woman's outfit was not the clothes she wore but what she wore beneath the clothes. A nineteenth century woman often wore multiple layers beneath her frock to achieve the desired silhouette. Often her undergarments alone would weigh 10 pounds or more. No wonder those ladies remained so trim and fit!

Let's examine what a typical woman of the 1800s would wear from the inside out:

Before the layers of undergarments could be piled on, a proper lady would don her chemise. The chemise (later known as a shift) was a garment worn directly over the skin. Looking much like a modern woman's cotton nightgown, the chemise was usually made of white or off white cotton or wool, though chamois was sometimes used in cooler climates. The main purpose of the chemise was to create a layer between the body and the clothing, which was often difficult to keep clean. While the chemise absorbed sweat, the clothing over it would remain dry.

Along with the chemise, some women wore drawers. Starting in about 1840, straightleg drawers were popular. A pair of straightleg drawers were just that: two legs attached to a waistband that either tied or buttoned (sounds a bit drafty to me). Because the ankle was considered a risque body part to expose, these often were long enough to protect the woman's dignity. During the Civil War years, knickerbocker drawers became popular. These were more like the bloomers (though they were not referred to as such by the women of that era) of today though they were much longer and came in close at the knee.

Next came the petticoats - plural. In the 1840s and '50s women would have worn up to 7 at one time to give the desired effect of a full skirt (which gave the waist a smaller appearance). Cording at the hem made petticoats stiffer and, thus, adding to the impression that a woman wore multiple layers of petticoats. When hoop skirts came into vogue, the number of petticoats was greatly reduced, though there were still rarely less than 2 worn at any time. The first petticoat was donned beneath the hoop skirt to cover the limbs (a lady would never refer to them as legs), with a second one placed over the hoops to avoid those embarrassing hoop lines (similar to a modern woman's concern of panty lines).

Layer number 4 is the corset, also in white or off white and stiffened with whale bones in the earlier part of the century and metal in the latter part. Corsets were often donned from the age of 3 or 4 for medical reasons. According to the experts of the day, a corset encouraged good posture and thus good health. Say what you will about what appears to be an instrument of torture, but I once attended an event where participants were encouraged to try on one of these fearsome items. The consensus was this garment provided the dual miracles of a drastically reduced waist and reduced back pain. When one considers the work some women of this century performed, it's no wonder they would need an item for back support. The fact that it gave them back their figures and turned the gentlemen's heads was, no doubt, a bonus.

And lest you think of Scarlett O'Hara's tight lacing as the norm, doctors actually warned women about the dangers of lacing one's corset too snugly. In reality, a properly fitted corset should support the back and bust while allowing the wearer to breathe normally. The stories you hear about ladies passing out or unable to sit down for fear of crushing their ribs meant the lady wasn't wearing her corset properly. And should a woman feel her bust a bit inadequate, the 19th century version of the Wonderbra was available in something called an artificial bust enhancer which was tucked into the corset in the proper place (no explanation necessary, I'm sure).

Atop the corset came a corset cover, again of simple construction and generally modest fabric. Its purpose was, as with the hoop skirt, to avoid having the lines of the corset show. This sleeveless garment usually slipped over the corset and chemise and buttoned or tied in the front. For those of you who are counting, this is layer number 5 (number 6 if you've chosen a bust enhancer as a part of your wardrobe).

Now comes the bustle. Depending on the year it might be a large lobster-like contraption that tied on at the waist and across the hips. In a different era, the bustle looked more like an inverted hockey helmet that folded to allow the wearer to sit without crushing it.

Is it just me, or are you exhausted thinking of how much effort went into getting dressed?

Now it's YOUR turn:

Do you think it was worth all the trouble women underwent for the sake of fashion?
Which one of the above fashion items would you not mind wearing today to help achieve a certain silhouette?
Have you ever donned any of the above items for any reason? What was it?

---

BIO
Tiffany Amber Stockton has been crafting and embellishing stories since childhood. Today, she is an award-winning author and speaker who has partnered with Nerium International in the anti-aging industry, helping others look younger and live better. She lives with her husband and fellow author, Stuart Vaughn Stockton, in Colorado. They have one girl and one boy, and an Aussie/retriever mix named Roxie. She has sold fourteen books so far and is represented by agent Sandra Bishop. You can also find her on Facebook and Twitter.

The Regency: A Man's World

                                

Above, March-- Morning Walking Dress

The Regency: A Man's World    by Linore Rose Burkard
It has been said that during the Regency a man's time was his own, while a woman was expected to engage in only a few genteel pastimes. For instance, only men were free to vote, hold office, box, fence, hunt, drive alone, shoot, attend a club, drink, play cricket, dine out freely with other men, game (gamble), race, and even womanize. Furthermore, only a son could usually inherit titles, and, most of the time, the accompanying lands and estate. And whatever pursuits he undertook--whether noble or not--would rarely jeopardize his standing with society. Whatever his private life, he could still dine with lords and mix with the highest sets, if his title, breeding, or status paved the way. A rare exception might be if he proved himself dishonorable by cheating at cards. (Imagine a world where dishonor was possible through cheating at cards, but not on your wife.)                                                                 There were some women who got away with having affairs; but they were already married. If a single woman, on the other hand,  attracted the merest scent of sexual immorality before marriage, she was "ruined," while with men it didn't really matter how they behaved.  The emphasis for them was to take care of the family estate by siring an heir. Whether or not they maintained sexual integrity, or honour, or moral fortitude was more of a personal choice; Fortunately, many men had well-developed moral codes,  and Jane Austen's books, for instance, often highlight the negative social consequences caused by the actions of those who lacked them.   Other avenues open to men but not women included entering the army or navy, or going into the church. Both (the military and the Church) were popular vocations for second or third sons throughout the regency.  Finally, if a man had independent means such as rich parents or a large fortune, he could also choose to simply be "a man about town." The best dressed and best looking men about town were usually the beaux and dandies. (Do not mistake dandies with fops--even the Prince Regent had years of dandified glory until he grew too large to cut a fine figure). The dandy is the style of male figure most regency romances rely upon to some extent for their heroes. None of Austen's heroes are mere idlers, even Mr. Darcy, and all are endowed with a deep sense of justice and honour. My own Mr. Mornay (from, Before the Season Ends) is independently wealthy due to his tenanted estate and other properties which he runs with meticulous care, and he has a great sense of fairness and morality that stands him in good stead as a proper hero.        Finally, only men were allowed to be University educated. Women often were schooled at home, or were self-taught, and there was always the occasional Young Lady's Academy, but nothing more. Some, (like Jane Austen) became novelists, but most of these women were quick to let their public know they were doing it to support their children. Others, like Mary Anne Evans later in the century, used a male nom de plume. (George Eliot), as it was thought inappropriate for women to write novels. Before the Season Ends, The Forsythe Series, Book One A Christian young woman makes her way through the treacherous waters of a Regency Season in London; while her worldly, wealthy aunt tries to marry her off for money. Linore Rose Burkard is best known for historical regency novels with Harvest House Publishers, including Before the Season Ends, the award-winning The House in Grosvenor Square, and, The Country House Courtship. As a writer noted for meticulous research as well as bringing people to life on the page, Linore's books delight fans of historical romance with "Heyeresque" humor and "Austen-like" manners.

Shopping in Regency England

by Linore Rose Burkard

"'Take note of this bonnet, Ariana,' Mrs. Bentley said. Ariana obediently surveyed the page open before her and exclaimed, 'How lovely!' It was a novel and elegant little piece of headwear, trimmed in Brussels lace and ribbon and sporting a dashing little ostrich feather. Forgetting her qualms she noted boldly, 'None of my bonnets has a real feather!'"

"We shall look for one just like this," Mrs. Bentley said. "But we do not bespeak bonnets from the seamstress. We shall go to Pall Mall or Bond Street. Even Oxford Street or to a warehouse down on Piccadilly. Some very respectable shops are there, and I want a certain style of Grecian head wreath for you which I feel certain we shall find on Oxford Street." (From, Before the Season Ends)

Ah, shopping. 

One of the challenges historical authors face, depending on the story line, is where to take their heroine shopping. In Before the Season Ends, Ariana Forsythe is faced with being outfitted by her wealthy aunt for a fashionable London season at the height of the Regency--any girl's dream, right? Not for Ariana! Since her Aunt Bentley is fashionable herself, however, she insists upon dragging the young woman along for a foray into London's elite shops for the best of the best.

One such place sure to be on any fashionable lady's agenda was "Harding, Howell and Co.'s Grand Fashionable Magazine" at 89 Pall-Mall. Quite a mouthful, that. But it tells its patrons with no apologies that it is the place for fashion, since the word is in its name. When Mrs. Bennet in Pride and Prejudice laments that she must be on hand to show Lydia where all the best warehouses are in London, no doubt she had this place in mind.   

Harding, Howell and Co's Grand Fashionable Magazine

 

Technically a linen-draper's, Harding, Howell and Co.'s sold much, much more than fabrics. And today's multi-level department stores might be taller than their regency counterparts, but make no mistake, HH&C was huge! In addition to the latest French muslins or silks, a lady could purchase the following:

1. Haberdashery of "every description"
2. Lace, gloves
3. Furs and fans
4. "Jewellery"
5. Ornamental articles in ormolu, French clocks, etc.
6. Perfumery and everything necessary "for the toilette"
7. Millinery and dresses
8. All manner of novelties

 Ackermann's Repository gives this description of HH&C:  "..There is no article of female attire or decoration, but what may be here procured in the first style of elegance and fashion." (1809, vol 1 No 3)

As you can see if you look at the above illustration, HH&C had a large circular "solar" window. It was the sort of place that didn't look so very large from outside, but once indoors, you could go on and on and deeper and deeper into a seemingly endless variety of rooms and recesses.  


As a teen and young adult, if I went into NYC with a friend, we could easily spend the whole day shopping at Macy's (yes, the same one from "Miracle on 34th Street").  We'd avail ourselves of the elevator instead of the escalator whenever we could, and elbowing through the crowd, shop til we were ready to drop, literally. Then we had to face the subway or Long Island Railroad to get back home.  (What amazes me is that I thought such outings were fun.) Anyway, a trip to HH&C could easily occupy a regency lady's whole morning, which is when most shopping was done.

Western Exchange, ca.1817

 Another destination sure to appeal to the regency lady or gentleman seeking most anything necessary for fashion was the Western Exchange, located off of Old Bond Street. Similar to a consignment market, sellers rented booths to sell their wares, and one could expect to find a wide range of goods available.  According to one website, the Western Exchange was principally used as a shortcut to the Burlington Arcade (which opened in 1819, and therefore was not available to my regency heroine, who had to suffer the London shops of 1813. But no worries: By the end of the day, like most women, Ariana found it was not such an awful thing to have new attire after all.)

For jewellery, despite the offerings at HH&C and other places, the destination for the fashionable elite was Rundell's. (Rundell, Bridge and Rundell, technically goldsmiths.) Even the Crown commissioned Rundell's when it wanted new pieces, and not only for jewels, but other pieces in gold, silver, bronze and gilt, such as the fabulous centerpiece, below.   

Elegant Regency Centerpiece, 1815

Some of the research tomes on this subject were as fascinating in their titles as the subject matter promises to be: Witness the following, for example: (Links to Amazon provided if they were available there. Most, alas, are not.)

Dress as a Fine Art, by Mrs. Merrifield, 1854

Too rich for my blood, but sounds terrific: Crime, Gender and Consumer Culture in Nineteenth Century England (The History of Retailing and Consumption)


One I could not find but would love to get my hands on:
Necklothitania or Tietania being an Essay on Starchers by one of the Cloth (pub.1818), J.J.Stockdale

(Does that sound like fun or what?)

For the serious fashionistas: Rudiments of Cutting Coats etc.of all sizes to fit the human form by anatomical proportions in conjunction with geometrical principles. Printed and sold by the Author 1819 Thomas Hearn
(Don't you just love the lengthy titles of the past?)

Another amazing title:  A Lady: The Lady's Economical Assistant,or, the art of cutting out, and making, the most useful articles of wearing apparel, without waste; by the....of appropriate and tasteful patterns 1808

Did you enjoy this short peek into regency shopping? Do you have a favorite resource book the rest of us might find illuminating? Please share!