Showing posts with label Historical Fashions. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Historical Fashions. Show all posts

Saturday, October 5, 2019

Motherhood in Colonial Times


         

Today we continue our series on motherhood throughout the ages (last month we read about medieval motherhood), focusing this month on being a mother in the 18th century, particularly Colonial America. I hope you enjoy learning about mothering in this period as much as I did; as always, I am moved to see yet again that however much times have changed, the heart of being a mother and raising children really does remain the same across the years.
Mother and child, American 18th Century. File donated to Wikimedia Commons
 by the National Gallery of Art. See Gallery's Open Access Policy.,
CC0, https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=81303921


A Full-Time Job

Even today, mothering can easily be a full-time job—or more!—but in colonial America, motherhood typically was truly a woman’s life-work. With families of ten or more children not only common but the norm (though several children often would not survive till adulthood), a woman likely would spend most of her life between the ages of twenty and forty-five either pregnant or nursing. Thanks to breastfeeding’s natural contraceptive quality, children were usually spaced a couple of years apart, but large families were both expected and desired. After all, many hands were needed for building the new immigrant society.

Then as now, it was easy for new mothers to feel overwhelmed by the intense and sometimes all-consuming needs of their little ones. As a new mommy myself, I sympathized with the words of Esther Edwards Burr, mother of Aaron Burr, who wrote after the birth of her second child in 1756:

“When I had but one Child my hands were tied, but now I am tied hand and foot. (How I shall get along when I have got ½ dzn. or 10 children I cant devise.)”

Bless her heart.


By Thomas Quine - 18th century gown, CC BY 2.0
Wikimedia Commons. 18th century styles
were easily adaptable for motherhood.
Motherhood Fashions

Since motherhood was such an integral part of most women’s lives, clothing fashions of the 18th century were actually fairly adaptable to pregnant and nursing mothers. While the stays that squeezed women into fashionable narrow waists might seem—and were—quite unhealthy in pregnancy, they were in fact designed with lacings to be let out at the sides as an expectant mother’s waistline grew. Other women ditched the stays entirely in late pregnancy, like the Duchess of Marlborough, who wrote in 1735 that during the last three months of her pregnancy, she merely “wore a warm waistcoat wrapped about me like a man’s and tied my petticoats on top of it.” Women’s dresses also were made to be easily let out or adapted with different inserts or aprons to transform them into maternity wear.

For breastfeeding mothers, the era’s low necklines, often filled in with a light scarf or fichu, were already quite practical. At least one set of stays from this period also survives with special flaps inserted, doubtless to make nursing even easier.


Coral Teethers and Pudding Caps
Silver and Coral teether made by Paul Revere, late 18th century.
By Daderot - Own work, Public Domain, Wikimedia Commons

Many ups and downs of the baby and toddler years haven’t changed much over the centuries, from teething to toddler tumbles. For teething babies, colonial mothers who could afford them might offer an elaborate teether made of silver, complete with bells to jingle when the baby shook the toy, a rattle, and a piece of polished coral for little gums to gnaw on. Coral was actually thought to be protective for teething children at the time, as 18th century parents actually considered teething quite dangerous! Once babies learned to walk, mothers often tried to protect their heads from tumbles with a padded cap, called a “pudding cap.” If you’ve ever heard someone affectionately refer to a little person as a “puddin’ head,” the term comes from those caps!
"Pudding Cap" child's head protector, Swiss, 18th century.
This file donated to Wikimedia Commons by the Metropolitan Museum of Art.
See Image and Data Resources Open Access Policy, CC0,
https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=59659879

Boys and girls were dressed much alike for their early years, in cloth diapers or “clouts” and layers of petticoats and gowns—and even miniature stays/corsets—as infants, then graduating to dresses for both sexes as they grew older. Boys were “breeched,” or transitioned from gowns to breeches, somewhere between the ages of four and seven.


Though times of boys in dresses, pregnant mothers in stays, and infants teething on coral may seem far from us, mothers’ love and concern and care for their children has not. What stands out most to you about these mothers of colonial times? What surprises you, or seems familiar? Please comment and share!



Kiersti Giron holds a life-long passion for history and historical fiction. She loves to write stories that show the intersection of past and present, explore relationships that bridge cultural divides, and probe the healing Jesus can bring out of brokenness. Kiersti has been published in several magazine and won the 2013 and 2018 Genesis Awards – Historical for her novels Beneath a Turquoise Sky and Fire in My Heart. An English teacher and member of American Christian Fiction Writers, Kiersti loves learning and growing with other writers penning God's story into theirs, as well as blogging at www.kierstigiron.com. She lives in California with her husband, Anthony, their two kitties, and their new baby boy.

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Sunday, May 19, 2019

Godey's Lady's Book: an Important Historical Record


Fashion plate from Godey’s Lady’s Book (1840)

Welcome to my new obsession! This is Janalyn Voigt, author of the Montana Gold western historical romance series. While researching The Forever Sky, the fourth Montana Gold novel, I stumbled across a valuable original resource. How I missed this record while researching before this, I’ll never know. It was extremely popular in its day.

Godey's Lady's Book: an Important Historical Record

Godey’s Lady’s Book (also known as Godey's Magazine and Lady's Book), was established in 1836 when Louis Godey merged the Boston Ladies’ Magazine with the Philadelphia periodical, Lady’s Book. Godey employed Sarah Josepha Buell Hale as editor of the newly-minted magazine. Under her guidance, the number of subscriber ranks swelled to 150,000 by 1860, just prior to the Civil War.
Fashion Plate from Godey's Lady's Book (1861)
Godey felt that the magazine should strike a neutral pose during the War Between the States (as the conflict was known back then). However, Hale was a devoted nationalist and used the magazine to subtly sue for unity. She used editorials, letters to the editor, fiction, and poetry to support her views. Her efforts did alienate some readers, and the periodical lost about a third of its subscribers. The publication recovered and continued as an influential voice in America until 1878. By then both Godey and Hale had passed away, and Godey’s Lady’s Book was absorbed into Puritan magazine.
Nightcap, Godey’s Lady’s Book (1840) 

Content

Godey’s Lady’s Book is an important historical and cultural record it is possible to view today. That makes it exciting for a historical fiction author like myself. I also enjoy reading archived issues on a personal level. I enjoy learning about history and love cooking historical recipes, for the way they connect me to the past.

Godey’s Lady’s Book provided entertainment, information, and education to American women. One of its biggest draws was the use of hand-colored fashion plates that brought American women news of the latest apparel. Detailed descriptions and patterns accompanied the plates. The magazine also contained historical biographies and articles on a wide range of subjects of interest to women of the day. Topics included dance, riding, hygiene, hair tutorials, remedies, household tips, recipes, house plans and many others. Every issue contained two pages of sheet music arranged for the pianoforte. At a time when people socialized by gathering to enjoy musical evenings, this was important. Besides fashion plates, the periodical boasted other beautiful illustrations.

Illustration; Godey's Lady's Book (1861)
The periodical became an important literary magazine with celebrated contributors like Harriet Beecher Stowe, Edgar Allan Poe, Herman Melville, Nathanial Hawthorne. I noticed during my perusal that poetry, often shunned today, took a primary place in the pages of Godey’s Lady’s Book. It warmed my heart as a novelist to see fiction given pride of place, second only to the demands of fashion.

How the times have changed! Gone are the days when ladies spent time together in the parlor sipping tea while reading poems and stories to one another. But we, dear reader, can recapture the gentle art of living through the pages of Godey’s Lady’s Book.

About Janalyn Voigt

Janalyn Voigt fell in love with literature at an early age when her father read chapters from classics as bedtime stories. When Janalyn grew older, she put herself to sleep with tales "written" in her head. Today Janalyn is a storyteller who writes in several genres. Romance, mystery, adventure, history, and whimsy appear in all her novels in proportions dictated by their genre. Janalyn Voigt is represented by Wordserve Literary. 

Learn more about Janalyn, read the first chapters of her books, subscribe to her e-letter, and join her reader clubs at http://janalynvoigt.com.


About Montana Gold


Based on actual historical events during a time of unrest in America, the Montana gold series explores faith, love, and courage in the wild west.

Learn More>>


Wednesday, July 20, 2016

Regency Costume Revisited (Part Two) And Ebook Giveaway

by Linore Rose Burkard

Note: Don't forget to click through to enter the giveaway at the end of the post!

In Part One of this series, ("Undress, Half-Dress, Full Dress, Ball,") we discussed the categories of costume which were part and parcel of a fashionable regency belle's wardrobe. This month we focus on Ball Dress exclusively.

Resting between dances, perhaps?
While many sorts of entertainments took place during the whirl of a Regency London Season, attending balls was quite possibly the apex of excitement for many. Assemblies were balls open to the public, often for a nominal fee. Almacks, that most exclusive venue, also required ball dress, for what was it but a tightly controlled ball, replete with refreshments, dancing, and opportunities for conversation?

(I hope to examine Almack's in a future column, with all its rules and strictures. It was a dominion ruled by a handful of society queens called "patronesses," and admittance was highly coveted--despite it having the reputation of being notoriously dull. Special "vouchers"--granted solely by the patronesses--were required for admittance.)

Otherwise, most balls were private affairs, requiring mere, ahem,  invitations. Procuring these invitations was every chaperon's and debutante's challenge. 

"Invitations," exclaims Mrs. Bentley, in Before the Season Ends, "are everything. Without invitations, we are nothing!"

The following excerpt (also from Before the Season Ends) shows how Mrs. Bentley, chaperon to her niece, debutante Ariana Forsythe, prepares the girl for an exclusive ball. Due to an amazing circumstance, Ariana will appear on the arm of the Paragon, Mr. Mornay, the handsome, fabulously wealthy, most sought-after gentleman in London.
...Mrs. Bentley sought out her niece to direct her remaining hours in preparations for the ball that night. It seemed outlandish, but she insisted Ariana soak in a hot tub, and then quickly into and out of a cold one. She called this "polishing the skin." Harrietta (the lady's maid) then took over, trimming the nails on her feet and hands, and supplying her with an enormous array of vials and lotions, perfumes and powders and other solutions. Some were for her face and neck, others for her hands, elbows, and even her feet!
Miss Forsythe, from, Before the Season Ends
Ariana was allowed a small meal, followed by tea. Then, to her surprise, Mrs. Bentley announced it was time to "earnestly prepare for the evening." Ariana had to wonder what they had been doing all along, if not earnestly preparing for the evening!

They fussed over her chemise, her stockings, her gown, her hair. By the time the two women had finished pulling, pinching, poking and pressing, Ariana felt more than ready to face the Paragon. Her hair was coifed elegantly atop her head, with curled tendrils about her face. (Ariana wished she had jet black hair, but Mama always said her lighter tresses matched the light in her eyes, and indeed, this night her words rang true. Ariana was a picture of sparkling, beauteous youth.)
Still, Mrs. Bentley insisted upon loaning her a matching set of jewels consisting of a necklace, earrings, brooch and bracelet. And, as a last dignifying element, a tiara: a delicate, lightly embellished headpiece, which was placed gingerly over her head and fastened into place with pins.
When at last she stood quietly resplendent in a pale pink gown of satin and net, with elegant white gloves that reached past her elbows and pale pink satin slippers upon her feet, even Mrs. Bentley had to smile.
"You do me credit, my gel," she said, almost affectionately. "Even Mornay will be smitten, I daresay, eh, Harrietta?"
Oh, yes, ma'am!" breathed Harrietta, fully as pleased with the way Ariana had turned out as her mistress.
"So tall and strikin' as miss is, just like a princess!"

And what were the results of such arduous preparations? Enjoy the following illustrations as examples of a Regency belle in ball attire. Note that gentlemen also had to wear Full Dress, which necessitated breeches (rather than pantaloons).










Waltz, 1817. From, La Belle Assemblee


Ballroom, 1820


A Victorian artist captures the Regency ball


A Russian Grand Ball


"The First Quadrille at Almack's" 






"Waltzers"


"The Five Positions of Dancing"


Gentleman in Full Dress

Did you enjoy this peek at Regency Ball Fashions? Jane Austen lovers often hold a Regency-style ball at the end of their annual galas. Look up JASNA.org for info. on this year's event.  



Linore Rose Burkard is best known for historical romance novels with Harvest House Publishers, and now writes YA/Suspense as L.R.Burkard. Linore teaches workshops for writers, is a mother of five, and still homeschools her youngest daughter—preferably with coffee in one hand,  and an iPad in the other.
GIVEAWAY GOING ON! Enter to win a giveaway of one of Linore's newest books, PULSE (YA/Apocalyptic Suspense) right now at Amazon.com. Entries accepted until July 23rd, but time is running out. Enter now!  Also--please tell a friend. SIX winners will be chosen!